| The
Firestone family, of Blue Cactus Bar and Grill
and Stella Osteria fame strike gold again
with another superior concept and exceptional
level of service
In Ottawa’s premiere location, the Byward
Market, Luxe Bistro brings a vision of progressive
bistro cuisine and steak house with innovative
selections. The cuisine is based on
classic technique, but relies on the high
quality of products such as organic produce
and Sterling beef.
Our
new menu choices include the classic Moule
et Frites, Yellow fin tuna, Mariposa duck
breast and our exceptional steakhouse selections.
Luxe
Bistro will be sure to provide you with an
unforgettable dining experience.
Fine
wine and exceptional spirits paired with your
menu choices play an essential part or your
meal. Every wine is chosen by Neil Gowe,
and spirits are designed specifically for
Luxe Bistro.
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Chef Duane Keats
Sommelier Neil
Gowe |
Once around
the Luxe kitchen with chef Duane Keats
-Ron Eade
Ottawa
Citizen, Omnivore
JULY
17 - 6:45 PM -- I'm always happy to sample
the food from an up-and-coming chef who I'm
pretty sure is going to make a name for himself
in the Ottawa dining scene.
And so I hesitated not one nanosecond this
week when Luxe Bistro part-owner Ida Firestone
invited me over to sample dishes on the new
menu created by executive chef Duane Keats,
who arrived after chef René Rodrigues
left in March to open his own restaurant on
nearby Murray Street.
Duane, 29, is a disarmingly unpretentious
and affable fellow who spent four-and-a-half
years learning from one the city's masters.
Now at Luxe in the heart of Ottawa's busy
ByWard Market, Duane says the scene is quite
different from what he's used to in the wilds
of Kanata where the view outside Brookstreet
is mostly wide boulevards, golf fairways,
ducks and aggressive geese with loose bowels.
"Here in the Market there are lots of
cars, people, and pretty girls," he says.
"Coming to Luxe at this time of year
is perfect, because it's summer and the produce
is fresh and in season ... It's not like launching
a winter menu when Black Cod isn't as good
as it is now, or the lobster isn't as fresh."
(You can tell when chefs are truly passionate
about what they do, because food is pretty
much all they talk about -- with infectious
enthusiasm, I might add. A student can learn
techniques all he wants in cooking school,
but if there's no visceral fire then his food
is destined for mediocrity.)
"It's a great time to launch my first
menu," he says.
Indeed it is.
And Duane has made interesting changes on
the carte at Luxe, more in keeping with traditional
French bistro but with his own flair. Ida
and I did our absolute best to graze through
eight courses of the chef's choosing but,
sadly, we couldn't try everything.
In the spirit of selfless sacrifice, then,
here are some highlights I can share with
you.
Among Duane's signature dishes, I'd invite
you to try his "Duck Duck Goose,"
which is a clever way of saying he's serving
duck two ways -- as a foie gras torchon with
blueberry compote, and a "cappuccino"
made with foie gras, heavy cream, reduced
white wine and shallots -- and a third component
of goose leg confit with a playful, diced
and tangy pineapple toss. The contrast in
textures was delightful; the cappuccino ridiculously
rich.
With Prawns 3 Ways, we got giant crustaceans
-- one served on a bed of acidulated avocado,
another wrapped in potato and fried, and a
third with fennel chive slaw given a kick
with chipotle mango. How playful is that?
Miso-Glazed Black Cod came with a delicately
fried shrimp spring roll, baby bok choy, and
fingerling potatoes. (The cod was marinaded
48 hours in sake, mirin, miso --- I'm betting
that's a Michael Blackie influence, but that
is only my assumption.) "The fish is
light and delicate, but buttery too,"
Duane says.
Black Cod is one of my current favourites.
You just can't get the same richness and delicate,
velvety texture with any other white fish.
At home I'm also in love with pot pie, blanketed
under a flaky puff pastry dome, and Duane's
Lobster Pot Pie disassembled and served tableside
was as fun to behold as it was to savour.
The hot pot comes with Atlantic lobster, brandy
cream, summer vegetables and, of course, puff
pastry. And if all that wasn't enough, Duane
tossed in giant prawns that aren't on the
menu listing just to make sure no one leaves
wanting.
Duane says he developed the menu after talking
with guests and regular customers. In fact,
he tries to visit half the tables during service
-- assuming, of course, the kitchen isn't
swamped -- for their feedback (something every
good chef tries to do, in my experience. Ignore
customers at your peril).
"It excites me to see a smile on someone's
face, to know they're enjoying my dinner,"
Duane says.
Why, I enjoyed sampling your food.
Large
lunchtime and dinnertime group?
We are able to accomodate up to 60 people!

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